The SP-1 King Casino by Azimuth

Firstly, before I begin my review on the Azimuth SP-1 King Casino, I would like to specially thank “ablogtowatch” for giving me this opportunity to be the proud owner of such a magnificent timepiece. I was amazed to be selected to win this ostentatiously looking watch nicely crafted by Azimuth. Bilal Khan was great in accommodating my emails and responded almost immediately. I would also really like to thank Azimuth for sponsoring this stylish casino styled watch.

The team of Azimuth here in Singapore was excellent and fantastic to me.

With the formalities all done, let me move on to the review.

Azimuth has certainly thrown caution to the wind by daring to be different. Envision the man wearing the watch and a design would materialise. Perhaps this was the muse whom the Azimuth design team envisaged as they meticulously crafted its dials and face. Being the owner of this timepiece, I now know they, in all probability, envisioned a unique individual much like the timepiece they have created.

Just by looking at the SP-1 King Casino, this is one bulky piece. It is a whopping 45MM across the wrist, yet, you would never expect it to fit so snug and comfortably. Ergonomically, I think Azimuth nailed it. The big lug wraps nicely around your wrist. The only set back being that if you wear it on your left hand, the huge dice of a crown might jab into your wrist every now and then. Apart from that, it fits great.

Never in my dreams did I think that shrinking down a roulette wheel onto your wrist would be so much fun and it was a ‘gamble’ Azimuth took. This wager surely did pay off handsomely with a magnificently looking piece. The bold colours and intricate details weave together seamlessly.

The numbers which mimic that of the roulette wheel line up nicely with the red and black tiles encapsulated by gold borders. Having the numbers encased in gold borders enhances its appearance by providing it the subtle embellishment needed.

Azimuth went one step further to intensify the casino feel by adding some aspects of Baccarat which I feel blends in cohesively with the roulette wheel. A small detail that stood out to me, was that there are slight curvatures to the hour and minute hands pointing towards the numbers and 'player' or 'banker' parts which represents the game of Baccarat. Another detail that has got me hooked is the spinning turret which acts as the second hand. Even the crown was ingeniously thought of. It happens to be dice-shaped and has dual functions. Not only is it used for adjusting time, but when depressed, the hand spins and will stop at a random spot on a number of the roulette wheel. Talk about having some fun with your buddies the next time you are out at a bar!

An odd feature that I particularly like is the domed-shaped sapphire glass which I liken to an optical illusion. From the top, it looks deceivingly flat but if you take a closer look you would be able to see that it is actually spheroid in its construction. Azimuth's superior craftsmanship has managed to showcase itself in every infinitesimal detail impressively. Looking at it up close, it reminds me of a sundial for some reason which is apt as both are used to tell the time.

All these extra little details shows just how well thought and well put together this piece is.

The SP-1 Casino-King is fitted with a modified self-winding Swiss ETA which has a pretty decent power reserve of forty hours. In terms of water resistance, it is resistant to a depth of thirty metres. In all honesty, I don’t foresee anyone carelessly wearing this to the pool for a dip. It is a little too cumbersome for that sort of activity.    

                                    

This watch is definitely flamboyant to say the least. It stands out in an innocuous but positive way, starting small conversations when you least expect with complete strangers. It certainly piques the interest and attention of people who cannot help but to ask for a closer look. Overall, this was a boldly conceived idea by the Azimuth team which seems to be a constant. It is surely a piece that may not appeal to all. This piece adds a little bit of excitement to the normalcy of everyday life.

Kudos to the Azimuth team for yet another marvellously bold piece. Thinking out of the box and always pushing watch designing to the next level.

                                     

Rado Voyager

Time to review another vintage piece, this time it is a Rado.

The Voyager has been a Rado model that has been around for a long time.

Strangely enough it is one of those models which has had different variations released along the years yet hardly any concrete info of it can be found online.

I have tried reading about it, to find out more of the story behind this piece but it is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

Just some back info on what shot Rado into “stardom”. Back in 1962, Rado produced the world’s first scratch-proof watch, the DiaStar, since then Rado set an industry standard in scratch proof watches and is still a market leader in scratch proof watches. Rado today still produces fine Swiss luxury timepieces, with multiple styles, having tough, sporty and timeless classic pieces as well.

Today we talk about the Voyager, which sounds somewhat like dive or boat watch or perhaps even to space, in reference to the term, “To voyage”.

As the golden age of space travel as set in the sixties, when Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong set foot on the moon.

Voyager is the name of a model line by Rado, this particular model was around from the late 1960s towards the end of 1980s.

At the beginning, it was just one of many models. It did later it became s.th. like an entrance class model which was marketed for the Fareast markets.

There are countless variations of this piece. All have automatic day/date movements. This model was somewhat like a mass produced model, for the everyday man. There were literally tons of these watches by the end of the 1980s. The Voyager was in my own opinion and this may be true, was the most produced piece in their range.

With the never ending variations, the Voyager was more than just a model but an entire product range of one type of model.
For an everyday watch, it was a practical model and better yet, Swiss made and automatic as well.

For a piece which seems to be selling really well, it was a surprise it ended production.
Though if you think about it, it probably happened due to the Quartz Crisis back in the day.
So what did Rado tell me about my piece, they said

“Yours is from 1982 or later, inside should be an ETA 2836-2 automatic movement with day/date, as the first three digits of the reference number(636.xxxx.x). This movement came 1982. Snap on backs were usual at that time at Rado. From what I can see, it is completely authentic.

The water resistance is always a problem at vintage watches. If you want to have it waterproof, you need new gaskets for the back and crown and a hydrostatic test to be sure. That´s expensive. If you want to wear it regularly, you should have it serviced(cleaning, oiling, adjusting) by a good watchmaker.

Hope this helps. Enjoy it and wear it in health!”
 
I was ecstatic to know that I have yet another original vintage piece in my possession. Plus the last bit from their staff was kind of quirky, wear it in health!

For now this piece is kept in my collection, it is not a piece that I wear frequently as it is too small for my wrist, nonetheless it is a lovely piece that I love admiring.

If only they made the back case transparent or see through, that would have been brilliant.

As this was a widely produced piece, its price is somewhat challenging to discuss. What factors encompasses a Voyager worthy of a mentioning.

It all comes down to the same few factors for every piece I guess? The rarity, condition and current market demand. As we speak, there isn’t really a hype or excitement surrounding vintage Rado pieces except maybe the old DiaStars. Then again in about 10 years, the picture may be totally different?

You may come across many Rados online, especially on eBay. If you think it suits you and the price is right, why not go for it.

This is a nice piece to have for anyone beginning a collection. It isn’t something really fancy or pricy.

I see it as a quintessential piece that perhaps set the tone for automatic watches back in the 1960s, it was an everyday watch. It was somewhat like what our Seikos are today.

Below are some pics of my Rado, it is still in a fairly good condition.

The automatic movement works well and it can run well.


Condition perhaps 7.5-8 out of 10. There are some signs of wear on the face and some visible scratches

 

 

 

Mr. Jones Sun and Moon Miyamoto

Alright, I got an interesting piece to talk about today.

It is Mr Jones Watches from UK. Well firstly, Mr. Jones is not your average line of watches.

It has an artsy feel about it with many witty designs. Most of the time (pun intended) it forgoes the usual conformity we are accustomed to seeing on a watch face. Instead it has vibrant, bold colours, artistic and imaginative designs in place.

Their unique styles make telling the time an altogether different process.

It makes time telling quirky and hip!

They have a whole Sun and Moon range, which unlike your usual timepiece that shows you ‘day and night’ through separate dial on the piece. Mr Jones, makes use of the movement of the sun and moon and they have referred to this as the “hour disc”. The hour disc is used to tell the time and the hands on the face are used to show the minutes and seconds.

So today I am going be to talking about my Mr Jones Watch.

It is a limited edition Sun and Moon Miyamoto.
This piece is inspired by the world of Super Mario Bros, and pays homage to its creator Miyamato.
Limited to 100 pieces. (or so I thought when I ordered mine)

So about 3 weeks later after my purchase, this piece seems to have been added to their regular line of Sun and Moon pieces. Which means it is no longer limited edition but a regular sale items.

 
To be honest, I am a little disappointed as I thought that I was one of the privileged 100 to be able to own this piece.

As why to this particular piece was reinstated is perhaps due to the reason it was very successful and sold out rather quickly. I have checked their website again and they have relaunched the piece to keep the vast number of customers happy. This is one of those times where the collaboration done by the watch maker, seems to have been done right.

To be fair, Mr Jones probably saw it as an opportunity too good to pass up.

Mr. Jones has managed to leverage on the vast number of Mario fans out there, whom by now should be in their late twenties to early forties. Indeed a good target market and with the style of the watch being so androgynous that it appeals to both man and woman (another plus point for sales and style). The team behind it did a great job, this would be somewhat like their golden goose.

Let’s face it, it is definitely a great piece but also a cash cow for now.

I am sure it would outsell may of their other pieces, just due to the fact that it is somehow linked to Super Mario. Well done and good move by Mr Jones, to bring it back to both satisfy the cravings of customers (definitely more than a hundred) and ring in the profits.

Only difference is that, when I got mine it read "No 45 in an edition of 100". (as you can see from the picture below)

For the regular pieces on the back case, the ‘No XX in an edition of 100’ words on the backing are no longer there, as shown below.

 

Taken from: http://mrjoneswatches.com/sun-and-moon-miyamoto/

As I have mentioned, there is a unique or unusual way of time telling on this watch.

The sun and the moon are the indicators for telling the time, sort of like your hour hand.

Before I get onto my take of this peice, let me share some info from their website.

The website explains it in detail how you can read the time properly. (Taken from http://mrjoneswatches.com/sun-and-moon-miyamoto/)

“The position of the sun or moon in the crescent shape indicates the hours.

The crescent shaped sky represents 12 hours with the time running from left to right.
At 6am the sun 'rises' on the left of the dial. The sun slowly climbs in the sky until it reaches the apex of the crescent noon.

The sun descends until it reaches the right hand marker at 6pm.

After 6pm the Sun ‘sets’ and disappears from view, meanwhile the Moon ‘rises’ on the left.
The position of the Moon in the sky shows the hours from 6pm until 6am.”

As for the minutes and seconds, it is displayed in the middle and tells the time in the conventional type of way.

So let us get down into this piece.

The first thing that definitely stands out is its cool Blue and Grey strap with pink stitching.
The strap surely is something funky and cool, the metal buckle also has a nice crisp finishing. The watch has a nice clear sliver lug with a mostly white face, with the hour disc having the day and night designs of the Mario world.

The design on the hour disc is not too complicated, it is done simple enough to be admired and I feel it makes use of the space flawlessly, without making it too congested with over complicated graphics, it is perfectly balanced.

It would look nice both on the wrist of men and women. It is nicely assembled to look good nice on a man's wrist not too small, and neither too big for a woman's wrist.

It feels good on the wrist, not heavy or bulky, just nice.

Since all the detailing was on the hour disc, the main point was to visualise the landscape moving along as time ticks on. They left it at that, leaving minimal details for the markers around the minute and second hands.

Having done a range of sun and moon pieces, the balance in this piece is perfected harmonised.
 
Thought it is a nice piece, when looking at it I must admit the finishing looks a tad bit shabby.

 


Especially 2 particular points. First it is the block markings (see in above picture) on the face along the "hour disc", there are 12 blocks which are used to help tell the hours as the sun or moons are directly below it. The colours of these markings seem to look faded, as though a poor printing method was used. It gave it an overall poorly finished look. If the colours were more saturated it would have come out looking more vibrant and eye catching, unfortunately this finish seemed to be below par.

The second point which I have to highlight is the print finishing on the back case of the timepiece. Once again here, the printing looks mediocre and somewhat like a childish finishing. It does not look good and professional. If the printing would have been more sharp and perhaps a shade darker to make it stand out a little more, that would have been enough to make it look more satisfactory.

Lastly, another confusing point was that on the back case of the piece, it says “Made in London”. Though when the item came and on the parcel box, country of origin was declared as “China”. This is perhaps another point to ponder on? I would not really think too much into it but it makes you wonder if the watch was indeed pieced together in London or not?

The specs of this piece shown below;

Case: brushed stainless steel

Strap: navy and grey leather with pink stitching
Mechanism: Ronda 515-24H single jewel quartz mechanism
Width (3 o'clock to 9 o'clock): 37mm
Height (from lug to lug): 46mm
Waterproof: 5ATM
Smallest strap diameter:150mm
Largest strap diameter: 205mm

Now let us delve into the story of this piece, so we know the inspiration came from the graphics of the highly popular Nintendo game Super Mario.

The image of the hour disc showcases the landscape of the scenes from the game. If you played Super Mario while growing up I am sure it would strike a chord with you.

Remembering the times you had to run pass the turtles and trying to get your mushrooms. It shows both the day and night landscape or 2D background as we would have known it back then.

So why is it called the Sun and Moon Miyamoto, is basically because this piece pays homage to the designer of this game Mr. Shigeru Miyamoto.

As I have mentioned Mr. Jones tends to be an artsy-fartsy sort of brand. They have an explaination the story behind the design of this piece. You can read more from, http://mrjoneswatches.com/sun-and-moon-miyamoto/ in the description tab.

All in all, it is a nice piece and especially if you are a Mario fan.

 

Seiko Criteria, Chronograph.

Let’s talk about Seiko today. The game changer, the Japanese power house!

Seiko almost wiped off the existence of automatic watches back in the day. Aptly known as the ‘Quartz Crisis’ in Switzerland and the ‘Quartz Revolution’ outside of Switzerland. The invention of the Seiko Quartz watch changed watch history forever in terms of Horology. The world’s first quartz watch was released by Seiko, call the Quartz ASTRON.

From then on Seiko has never looked back, developing so many other interesting timepieces like the Seiko Kinetic as well.

Today I won’t go into deal on how fantastic Seiko has been over the years.

I am going to talk about a Seiko I own. So this is my first ever Seiko. A Seiko is somewhat a watch for the everyday man and here in Singapore I see a Seiko or Citizen on the wrist on the average man on the street. Well growing up no one in my family really cared much about timepieces and we had really basic watches on our wrist, just to tell the time. The first ever watch I had as a kid was probably a digital Casio watch.

Well since then, I have come a long way. I have had a deep interest in Horology and in the arts of fine watch making. Though Seiko may not fall into the category  of fine watch making. It definitely deserves a place in Horology history for their contributions to the Horological world.

The watch at hand is the limited edition Seiko Criteria SNDG13P1, number 2041 out of 3600.


Below are the specifications of this timepiece

 

Quartz movement.
Calibre: 7T92.
Black ion-plated stainless steel case.
Blue ion-plated stainless steel unidirectional rotating bezel and inner ring with tachymeter.
Black ion-plated stainless steel bracelet.
Three-fold clasp with push button release.
Screw case back.
Blue dial with luminous hands and indexes.
Date calendar display at 4 o'clock position. 1/20 second chronograph, up to 12 hours.
Sapphire crystal glass.
Water resistant to 100 meters.
 

Visually the piece looks amazing, I feel the colours of the dial and the bezel match together very well. That metallic shine makes this piece stand out more as compare to the other similar models which are not limited edition. The Black ion-plated steel bracelet gives sort of a gun metal finish colour which once again I find visually stunning. So aesthetically the colours are nice and vivid. There is a nice extra touch with the blue dial having luminous hands and indexes.

For the technical side, the Calibre 7T92 has the sub dial at the 6 o’clock has the hour and minute hands that track the chronograph elapsed time up to twelve hours. The sub dial at the 12 o’clock is the 1/20 second indicator. The interesting this is that the second hand does not measure the time but is used to measure the second for the chronograph movement. Where else, the sub dial at the 9 o’clock is actually the one which shows the seconds for the time.

On the bezel there are Arabic markings and seconds hands in multiple of fives.

Inside on the dial there are more markings for the Tachymeter function.

This is a nice weighty piece, as for me I like big heavy pieces that has a little more weight on the wrist.

The steel bracelet does surely add more weight on this piece. Making it a little bulky and stand out slightly more.

So overall this is a nice piece with great chronograph and
 tachymeter functions.

With stark colours to make it shine, it has a nice sporty feel like an aviator or motor GP watch.

This can be worn both with your suit to work or for a game of golf.

Take a look and judge for yourself.

Valjoux, who?

One of the first movements that I began to hear a lot when I was reading up on timepieces and how many automatic watches ran was the term “Valjoux”.

It is one of the names I have heard many times and is a movement used in my timepieces, usually for chronograph movements.

Valjoux was a fabled movement maker and was part of the behemoth ASUAG group known today as Swatch Group.

The piece de resistance of the Valjoux movement is none other than the ETA 7750.

How this movement was conceived tells an interesting tale. At that time, Valjoux was a leader in the manual wind chronographs.

It had already produced the manual wind Valjoux 7733 movement which doing amicably well. In the 1970s, they wanted to spearhead a development of a new movement, one which would be reliable and cost effective. This movement is also acclaimed to be the first to have been designed with the aid of a computer back in the seventies.

Sadly it was short lived, it did sell well in the beginning with an estimated of around hundred thousand pieces in 1974. In the following year, production stopped and this movement went bust. At that time, the demand was so low that supplies lasted well into the eighties. Imagine if your Grandad or dad actually bought those pieces when nobody actually wanted them, they would have gotten them at a steal. Today you would be seating on a ‘goldmine’, as the demand for automatic timepieces were somewhat resurrected, so the ETA 7750, somewhat like the phoenix rose from the ashes. (Thankfully the people of ASUAG kept the dies and equipment so they could restart production seamlessly).

Thanks to its ingenious design, this was both durable and economical to produce, along with great support from Swatch Group the 7750 became the most movement in the Swiss automatic chronograph movement. It could be said to be the most successful automatic chronograph movement, perhaps period.

Here are some of the brands out that which use this fantastic movement in the timepieces; Breitling, Cyma, Hamilton, IWC, Mido, Omega & Panerai to name a few.

My Bulova Sea King

I recently got my hands on a classy vintage Bulova Sea King, fitted with a Speidel elastic band.

This was a particular model that I have been trying to get my hands on for a while, pictures below.

 

 

Prior to getting it, all I knew that it was from the era of the seventies but its story, which once I found out which intrigued me and made me sought after this piece even more.

So when I got it, the first thing I had to do was to get it authenticated from Bulova (something everyone should do once they get any vintage watch).

So Bulova got back to me, confirming my time piece was indeed genuine and from the N1 on the back case confirmed that it was produced in 1971.

Wow! What a marvellous piece of work, it is 44 years old this year and it still works fine.

From what I have gathered, the Sea-King was a water-resistant line from Bulova, it was introduced in 1959 all the way till the seventies. Which means mine was one of the later models.

Some have only the label “SEA KING“, some with the “SEA KING” & Whale logo, while some only had the whale. Which I guess changed over time. This is what is believed as a general consensus.

It seemed to be something that was not questioned by most, who took it as a gradual change in the aesthetic feature of the watch. Apparently there is a meaning to the whale on the face.

Some Bulova experts, have stated that the whale actually appeared around the 1966 to 67 but it did not necessarily meant it was a ‘SEA KING’ model. The whale actually meant it was waterproof.

If you dig further, there seem to be a link or a tribute to the Whalers of Sag Harbour, which was the home of the Bulova watch case factory (at Sag Harbour).

We only know this to be hearsay, its seems plausible thought. The whale logo came out around 1966, which coincidentally marked the 100 year anniversary of a Whaling Festival of Sag Harbour which was where the Bulova factory was situated as well. This seems the most promising explanation which links the two together.

For those of you who would like to delve deeper, have a whale of a time reading more into the story here : http://www.mybulova.com/forums/bulova-sea-king-whale

I guess the story of the watch actually compelled my to want to own one as well, as it has an interesting story shrouded in mystery.

I am a fan of many of the old Bulova timepieces, another highly sought after piece for myself would be the Bulova Accutron.

To me, the Bulova timepieces of old which were Swiss made are really lovely and has that ‘real deal’ feel about it. What I mean is that it built watches that were made to last.

Though the current modern day do Bulovas look nice and are now mostly made in Japan, I am just a little unsure if it would stand the test of time, like the stalwart Sea King that is still going strong 44 years on.  Asthetically a watch may look exquistie but there more than meets the eye. To someone who love timepieces, the movent and detailing matter much as well.

Though I would think it would be time I sent it for some general servicing and cleaning.

As to why it is now mostly manufacuted in Japan, here is a short history.

Back in the day, Bulova was a major force in the watch industry. Bulova timepieces were mechanical movemnts that were well made, deisgned and relialbe (just look at the one I got, still ticking away). Bulova had a great share of the electronic watch market with their tuning fork Accutron. By the mid seventies, there was an eruption of quartz watches in the market, Bulova was suddenly hit and somehow seemed to dwindled down from then. It has lost its marketshare to the influx of Japanese watches, names the qaurtz watches. They were sold to the Loewe Corporation and then finally sold of to Citizen of Japan in 2007.

 

So the Sea King is surely a piece to be etched in Bulova history.

My frist Swiss Timepiece & what is GMT

The first Swiss timepiece I got was a Cyma, it was a world time GMT in rose gold.

 

Just to share something on Cyma, so the back story of Cyma (in French meaning Summit) watches, is that it was founded by brothers Joseph and Theodore Schwob in 1862.  By the 1920s, Cyma’s strategy or route was  inclined to standardise watch part manufacture. For Cyma producing average parts wasn’t good enough. Precision was paramount to ensure long term accuracy. Though there was magnificent accuracy, it wasn't all that study and these wasn't something faced only by Cyma. Despite all these efforts, early timepieces were known to be vulnerable to damage when impacted upon.  Till there was a breakthrough technolody. A reliable and fantastic shock proofing system being used in 1930s, invented by Georges Braunschweig and Fritz Marti. From this creation it led to an in-house revolution by Cyma, in the 1950s, it developed its own shockproofing system known as Cymerflex. This is a true testament of Cyma’s pinnacle, sort of reaching its “Summit”. Thus till today, you hardly ever hear of a Cyma of the yesteryears giving you much trouble.

Today, having spoken to so numberous people it seems the name Cyma is somewhat a forgotten thing of the past.  In recent times, its prestige and presence has dwindled down over the years from the way I see it and am not entirely sure why so as well.

On to my first Swiss timepiece, it is a GMT World Time (pictures below).

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is a quartz movment, a beauty to behold, aesthetically to me it is lovely and classy. So after getting my hands on my timepiece, I had to figure out how exactly does one read the time on a GMT watch. So here I will try explain what exactly is a GMT watch and how it functions in lay man’s terms.

 

Firstly, “GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time and is the zero point on the 24 hour scale of international time zones. Greenwich is in England, and from there other time zones are plus or minus GMT. This was set in place so that travellers could tell time of the location they are in, where ever in the world. As long they knew the GMT time, they could then add or subtract from that time to get the local time or somewhere else. Point to note, GMT is also known as UTC ( Coordinated Universal Time), this may be a common sight in German timepieces.

 

Most GMT timepieces have two hands to display both the time in a 12-hour format and an independently adjustable 24-hour hand. If the 24-hour hand cannot be adjusted independently, its only purpose then is to solely indicate if the time is AM or PM. One of the primary reasons a GMT timepiece is used so that people can tell the local time along with other time zone that is not usually GMT. So this helps to tell the time in any two different time zone, which may be locally or internationally and doesn’t not have to be GMT.

 

Once you have accustomed yourself to reading two different time zone, since most GMT timepieces have a rotating 24 hour bezel (if a GMT scale is available on the dial) you can use it to follow a third time zone. Though this may need some calculations.

 

So basically a GMT timepiece shows you 2 times zone at the same time. This may be the second most handy complication out there in next to a chronograph. Or even the second most common?