Tissot PRX Triple Pointer Date Moon phase

Today let us talk about a piece I am so glad and ecstatic to own.
It is a Tissot PRX Triple Pointer Date Moon phase  R80 quartz watch , with is a Swiss made chronometer in stainless with gold tone bezel and day date.
I have been finding or trying to get my hands on a vintage moon phase timepiece.
I am glad to announce, I now finally have it.


Though it may not be that old, it is still a 26 year old piece in good working condition.
What makes it all the more special is that, I received confirmation from Tissot on this piece.
At first I was a rather sceptical, as little or close to no info was available online for this particular piece.


There were many PRX models but one with moon phase seemed almost impossible to find any information.


I wished to be able to have more info on this lovely looking piece, to understand its history more.
Unfortunately I really could not find anything online or anywhere else to help ease my queries.
As of now, all I got are little bits and pieces from here and there.
Though I am thankful to have a valuable source of information directly from Tissot.
Their reply to my enquiry gave some basic info on my timepiece.
Below is a response I got from Tissot in Switzerland,
“
We can inform you that this model PRX is a Tissot production from 1989.
The watch is fitted with a quartz movement,  and is 10 bar (100 meters) water resistant.
The case are made of PVD/steel. This model was also available with gilt, white or black dial.
”

Though I can only think of one set back, which is that the watch size is a little small but this was the case for timepieces made back in the day up till the 90s.
So unlike the big watch faces we are used to seeing these days or the heavy size, back then it was somewhat petite.


Personally gold coloured moon phase watches looks a tad more classy and gives it a luxurious feel.


To further break down this timepieces below are its specs;
Tissot PRX - Quart 7 jewel Swiss movement.
Dual tone colour combination “18K Gold electro plated and Steel”
White dial with three sub dial indicator column for “Month, Day and Moon phase”.
The second hand sub-dial located at moon phase, while the long needle with a tip resembling a red crescent is a hand pointer date, date version of the circular dial.
Index Strip hours marker.
Solid SS bracelet with a variant of the gold-steel tonnage segment.
Three folding clasp.
WR100m, scratch-resistant glass (sapphire crystal).
36mm diameter crown. 7mm thickness.
Fixed bezel ring pattern formation 12 angle.

If anyone out there has more info on this lovely timepiece, I am all ears!

Seiko Criteria, Chronograph.

Let’s talk about Seiko today. The game changer, the Japanese power house!

Seiko almost wiped off the existence of automatic watches back in the day. Aptly known as the ‘Quartz Crisis’ in Switzerland and the ‘Quartz Revolution’ outside of Switzerland. The invention of the Seiko Quartz watch changed watch history forever in terms of Horology. The world’s first quartz watch was released by Seiko, call the Quartz ASTRON.

From then on Seiko has never looked back, developing so many other interesting timepieces like the Seiko Kinetic as well.

Today I won’t go into deal on how fantastic Seiko has been over the years.

I am going to talk about a Seiko I own. So this is my first ever Seiko. A Seiko is somewhat a watch for the everyday man and here in Singapore I see a Seiko or Citizen on the wrist on the average man on the street. Well growing up no one in my family really cared much about timepieces and we had really basic watches on our wrist, just to tell the time. The first ever watch I had as a kid was probably a digital Casio watch.

Well since then, I have come a long way. I have had a deep interest in Horology and in the arts of fine watch making. Though Seiko may not fall into the category  of fine watch making. It definitely deserves a place in Horology history for their contributions to the Horological world.

The watch at hand is the limited edition Seiko Criteria SNDG13P1, number 2041 out of 3600.


Below are the specifications of this timepiece

 

Quartz movement.
Calibre: 7T92.
Black ion-plated stainless steel case.
Blue ion-plated stainless steel unidirectional rotating bezel and inner ring with tachymeter.
Black ion-plated stainless steel bracelet.
Three-fold clasp with push button release.
Screw case back.
Blue dial with luminous hands and indexes.
Date calendar display at 4 o'clock position. 1/20 second chronograph, up to 12 hours.
Sapphire crystal glass.
Water resistant to 100 meters.
 

Visually the piece looks amazing, I feel the colours of the dial and the bezel match together very well. That metallic shine makes this piece stand out more as compare to the other similar models which are not limited edition. The Black ion-plated steel bracelet gives sort of a gun metal finish colour which once again I find visually stunning. So aesthetically the colours are nice and vivid. There is a nice extra touch with the blue dial having luminous hands and indexes.

For the technical side, the Calibre 7T92 has the sub dial at the 6 o’clock has the hour and minute hands that track the chronograph elapsed time up to twelve hours. The sub dial at the 12 o’clock is the 1/20 second indicator. The interesting this is that the second hand does not measure the time but is used to measure the second for the chronograph movement. Where else, the sub dial at the 9 o’clock is actually the one which shows the seconds for the time.

On the bezel there are Arabic markings and seconds hands in multiple of fives.

Inside on the dial there are more markings for the Tachymeter function.

This is a nice weighty piece, as for me I like big heavy pieces that has a little more weight on the wrist.

The steel bracelet does surely add more weight on this piece. Making it a little bulky and stand out slightly more.

So overall this is a nice piece with great chronograph and
 tachymeter functions.

With stark colours to make it shine, it has a nice sporty feel like an aviator or motor GP watch.

This can be worn both with your suit to work or for a game of golf.

Take a look and judge for yourself.

My frist Swiss Timepiece & what is GMT

The first Swiss timepiece I got was a Cyma, it was a world time GMT in rose gold.

 

Just to share something on Cyma, so the back story of Cyma (in French meaning Summit) watches, is that it was founded by brothers Joseph and Theodore Schwob in 1862.  By the 1920s, Cyma’s strategy or route was  inclined to standardise watch part manufacture. For Cyma producing average parts wasn’t good enough. Precision was paramount to ensure long term accuracy. Though there was magnificent accuracy, it wasn't all that study and these wasn't something faced only by Cyma. Despite all these efforts, early timepieces were known to be vulnerable to damage when impacted upon.  Till there was a breakthrough technolody. A reliable and fantastic shock proofing system being used in 1930s, invented by Georges Braunschweig and Fritz Marti. From this creation it led to an in-house revolution by Cyma, in the 1950s, it developed its own shockproofing system known as Cymerflex. This is a true testament of Cyma’s pinnacle, sort of reaching its “Summit”. Thus till today, you hardly ever hear of a Cyma of the yesteryears giving you much trouble.

Today, having spoken to so numberous people it seems the name Cyma is somewhat a forgotten thing of the past.  In recent times, its prestige and presence has dwindled down over the years from the way I see it and am not entirely sure why so as well.

On to my first Swiss timepiece, it is a GMT World Time (pictures below).

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is a quartz movment, a beauty to behold, aesthetically to me it is lovely and classy. So after getting my hands on my timepiece, I had to figure out how exactly does one read the time on a GMT watch. So here I will try explain what exactly is a GMT watch and how it functions in lay man’s terms.

 

Firstly, “GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time and is the zero point on the 24 hour scale of international time zones. Greenwich is in England, and from there other time zones are plus or minus GMT. This was set in place so that travellers could tell time of the location they are in, where ever in the world. As long they knew the GMT time, they could then add or subtract from that time to get the local time or somewhere else. Point to note, GMT is also known as UTC ( Coordinated Universal Time), this may be a common sight in German timepieces.

 

Most GMT timepieces have two hands to display both the time in a 12-hour format and an independently adjustable 24-hour hand. If the 24-hour hand cannot be adjusted independently, its only purpose then is to solely indicate if the time is AM or PM. One of the primary reasons a GMT timepiece is used so that people can tell the local time along with other time zone that is not usually GMT. So this helps to tell the time in any two different time zone, which may be locally or internationally and doesn’t not have to be GMT.

 

Once you have accustomed yourself to reading two different time zone, since most GMT timepieces have a rotating 24 hour bezel (if a GMT scale is available on the dial) you can use it to follow a third time zone. Though this may need some calculations.

 

So basically a GMT timepiece shows you 2 times zone at the same time. This may be the second most handy complication out there in next to a chronograph. Or even the second most common?



 

Hugo Boss Timepieces

So I recently received a Hugo Boss Timepiece as a gift. I have been scratching my head to figure out where exactly the watch is made in?

Nowhere on the box, manual guide or watch does it state. I have not tried opening the backing of the watch, as I do not have the proper tools nor expertise for it.

I have a few pictures below of the watch I received, let’s see if any ne out there can help me out on this.

 

I have been doing some reading online, what I found out is that Hugo Boss has licensing agreements with Movado to help produce timepieces for them. This is the background except from Wikipedia, “ The brand's parent company, Movado Group, Inc., was founded in Switzerland in 1983 by Cuban-born Gedalio Grinberg. The company designs, manufactures, and distributes the following brands of watches in addition to its own: Ebel , Concord, ESQ Movado, Coach, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Juicy Couture and Tommy Hilfiger.

Of all the above brands, I only know Concord watches to fetch a hefty price tag. None of the other brands, like Ebel the principal brand of Movado have I really heard much of. Prior to this, I must admit I did think of Concord watches to be altogether an independent brand. I can’t seem to find a reference, link or connection on Concord’s website www.concord.ch tying it up with Movado. I guess this could be a marketing strategy, to make it seem like a totally independent brand from Movado. As who would want to spend 50 grand on a timepiece (Yes, I personally know someone who bought a Concord timepiece for 57Grand) to having later find out, that the watch they pay such dough for is linked to a company making “mediocre” timepieces for Fashion Label, who are finding secondary means to generate more revenue. On the other hand, some people may not even bother about such trivial things. Thought I can see myself being one of the lesser few who may be.  After some searching I did find it stated on Mavado’s website; http://www.movadogroup.com/brands/concord.cfm

While scavenging through some forums, some signs points to perhaps the Hugo Boss watch I received could have possibly be made and assembled in China. Which would be no surprise for me, but I don’t seem to be able to find any solid evidence for it.

Movado may be a Swiss company but I am pretty sure the watches under their account from Coach, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Juicy Couture and Tommy Hilfiger are surely not Swiss made as it would surely add additional ‘zeros’ or well at least hundreds to the price tag to be modest. Also the most clearest indication would be to slap on the ‘Swiss made’ tag on the dial, which who wouldn’t right? On the other hand, some people in forums said they may actually be made in  Germany. Though at this point of time, I have no actual evidence of this. Having read several forums, many other people seem as puzzled as myself.

So this still have left me scratching my head. Never thought finding something like this out could be so tedious. It all seems a little jiggery-pokery.

What is a Chronograph?

So have you ever asked this question, what exactly is a Chronograph watch?

It may seem like a really absurd question to most people who know a thing or two about watches.

But guess what, I have been asked this question before. So why not explain it?

Firstly, before I carry on, yes I do know there are a ton of websites and books out there that already explain or give you the answer you are looking for with regards to “what is chronograph or tachymeter” and so on. Well yes it is true, there are so why exactly am I writing then?

I am doing this to help myself further understand and learn from what already little or much I may know. As you can never know too much.

Similarly I do live by the principle of, "We learn new things everyday". So writing helps me to learn and express. 

Carrying on, so the most basic kind of watches out there are the ones that only show you the time. It has numerals (most of the time, some omit numerals altogether) and 3 hands (Hour, Minute and Second) like shown below.

(TAKEN FROM : HTTP://Global.timex.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/t2p128_0.jpg  )

Some basic watches do have other patterns or designs, like the Nomos Tangente, which right now is one of my favourite pieces out there. This particular model has a separate second hand counter. ( On a side note, this is such a lovely and classic piece that I would really like to own, soon)

  (TAKEN FROM HTTP://WWW.nomos-store.com/out/pictures/master/product/1/tangente_font(1).png)

Before I carry on, we owe it all to Monsieur Louis Moinet, the inventor of Chronograph. So the back story was that in those days the "aristocrats" were interested in the cosmos, so this invention was actually used for tracking astronomical objects.

In essence, chronograph watch is basically a watch that has a stopwatch function added into it. Chronograph watches can be either automatic or quartz and feature various complications at once and have several sub dials to read off the measurements. The most basic chronograph has a separate or independent sweep second hand which can start and stop, and return to zero. There can be up to four dials on the face to indicate hour, minute, seconds and 24 hour indicator(some dials show even up to a tenth of a second), like the  Eberhard And Co. Chrono 4 Grande Taille 31052.1 shown below. 

                 (TAKEN FROM HTTP://azfinetime.wordpress.com/2013/02/09/eberhard-and-co-chrono-4-grande-taille-31052-1/)

Majority of the chronograph's  features works by pushing a start button. Usually most of the start buttons are placed at the Two O Clock position to get the timer moving to record time and by pressing the same button to stop the time recording and returning to zero by pressing it over.

Each individual function of the chronograph is independent of each other. What this means is that your timepiece can tell the time and function as a stop watch concurrently.

Not to be confused, Chronograph is known as a complication of a timepiece and not its movement (of the watch).

Just to add in some technical stuff, there are 2 kinds of chronographs the automatic and digital. Difference being, automatic chronograph depends only on kinetic energy as a source of its power. The digital on the other hand works very much like a common hand help stopwatch and is run by batteries.

What does a timepiece mean to you?

What does having a timepiece mean? Does a timepiece define a man or a woman?

Recently I have read some articles on how people have been discussing on how a timepiece reflects a person’s character or attitude.

Which to a varying degree may seem true but then again some people have eccentric taste but it may not be a reflection of themselves.

So I just wanted to give my 2 cents worth.

Here goes.

They sometimes say you can differentiate a “ruffian” from a  gentlemen by the watch he wears.

How sophisticated or uncultivated a man may be, is sometimes measured by his timepiece, how true this is I do not know.

Though it has proved many times more than less, to be true. Genuine gentlemen, men of chivalry do more often than not have very lovely timepieces accompanying them on their wrist. Most of these men have timepieces that are adored by many. Classic, vintage, subtle and never too loud and flashy. It has the right balance of all things fine.

You see many aristocrats  adorning fine timepieces, many a times a Swiss timepiece. On the other hand, there are men with money and no appreciation for the finer things in life. Having money, they may be able to buy many beautiful and expensive things in life, but that does not simply mean they may understand it or appreciate it. Thus unfortunately, some men end up buying really flashy expensive timepieces without having a deep appreciation or understanding of what they own. Many end up ”bling-ing” up their timepieces. Like having the dial covered in diamonds or a full diamond bezel. This many a times, diminishes the class of a timepiece in my opinion. It’s like looking at a Da Vinci painting. It is a masterpiece the way it is. You would not add anything to it. So why add diamonds all over an already  beautiful timepiece.

Do not get me wrong there are many amazing jewellery inspired timepieces that have left my jaw hanging. Like those of Cartier, which has such class and perfection. It has that je ne sais quoi about it that I cannot explain, which is oh so alluring. Not forgetting many early timepieces by Vacheron Constantin which were actually made with dual purposes to act as a jewellery piece and to tell them time as well, like the one below.

MÉTIERS D'ART LADY KALLA FLAME

(taken from http://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en/watches/metiers-d-art/lady-kalla-flame-17620-s11g-9478.html)

So yes back to the timepieces, I have a deep appreciation for each one, how unique or loud it may be. I have been a really huge fan of classic and vintage designs. I really find "complicated" timepieces such a joy to behold. To me it is like beloved the work of a maestro, just like how a painting is admired. All the complications packed into such a limited amount of space makes it all the more extraordinary. Below is one of these pieces which are among my favourites

                                                                                                        PATRIMONY PERPETUAL CALENDAR

(taken from http://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en/watches/patrimony/patrimony-contemporaine-perpetual-calendar-43175-000r-9687.html)

Though for some reason, I recently laid eyes on a limited edition watch from LIP, and am somehow drawn to it. It is the MACH 1871 to be more specific,  this is a really unique timepiece. It is bold, loud and everything I am not usually drawn to. I guess the French have a way to make unconventional seem elegant about it. See the picture below and you will understand what I mean.

                                                                                  

                                                                                         MACH 1871

(TAKENFROM HTTP://WWW.LIP.FR/EN/CREATORS/SPECIAL_EDITIONS/COMMUNE_DE_PARIS_1871/MACH_1871.HTML)

So when you wear a timepiece on your wrist you are showcasing an art form meant for enjoyment both for your eyes and mine. If at the right place at the right time, someone who understands what you mean may even start a conversation, or pay you a compliment on your timepiece. I have read of stories of how wearing the right timepiece has helped in many situations or even opened up business opportunities for some.
 

So keep on rocking your wrists with any timepiece. Who's to know, it may lead to an open door for you? I am still awaiting my coveted timepiece to adorn, slowly but surely I will work my way up to it.

The saying goes, the pen is mightier than the sword but I beg to differ.

The timepiece is mightier than both, sword and pen. As history itself proves it. We see accounts of famous historical figures having owned fascinating timepieces be it a pocket watch or wrist watch. The likes Napoleon Bonaparte and Pope Pius XI have adorned a Vacheron Constantin just to name a few.

I find it rather remarkable that most famous historical figures are associated with timepieces that they had in their possession. It seems that their timepieces has indeed stood the test of time (pun intended).

 

So with that, The pen may be mightier than the sword, but the timepiece conquers all.

So what is Quartz & Mechanical

I have been absorbed into the very fascinating world of Watches.

I can’t seem to have enough of them, these fine timepieces have gotten the better of me.

This year I have been reading up countless pages online on different watch movements and history of certain timepieces. Expanded my knowledge of many more amazing new and vintage brands.

Learning the differences between functions and movements.

I still have so much more to learn and grasp.

The art of watch making is amazing, all the unbelievable kinds of functions in every time piece, each in its own style and each brand having it’s open particular speciality.

Firstly a movement is something like what runs the watch like an engine or heart of the timepiece ( in my own words).

The most basic being either quartz or mechanic.

A quartz movement is an electronic movement. It is called a quartz movement, because a small quartz crystal is integrated into the electronics. This is done as every timekeeping devices needs something constant in which it can measure time against. When current is run through a quartz crystal it will oscillate almost perfectly at a constant frequency. Hence the reason why quartz watches have such an amazing accuracy. The better the quartz, the more accurate time keeping will be to within few seconds a year.

Most quartz watches run on a battery, which can usually last from 2 to 5 years before a replacement is needed. The more basic the watch the longer the battery may last. More complicated movements which may include a compass or stopwatch may result in a shorter battery life.

Mechanical watches seems like a thing of the past in our current day and age. Yet it is an important movement as it may have led to more modern movements. So there may be self-winding or manual winding mechanical or automatic. The technology used in mechnical watches may somewhat be centuries old. This movement is powered by springs that turn gears in which is a regulating mechanism, eventually the hands. Mechanical movements have a range of 50 to 300 parts. This usually depends on the movement. If properly maintained and kept in good care, whose to know how long it may last?

From reading maybe articles, it is said that the jewels used in the movements is a reason that mechanical watches have such longevity.

The most common form of mechanical watches are the automatic. Automatic watches have a rotor that spins on the back of the movement. This turns a gear which winds the main spring in turn working the watch.

Mechanical watches may start simply by keeping time, showing hours, date and stopwatch features to complications such as perpetual calendars alarms and minute repeaters. Such complicated mechanical watches are known to fetch high to exorbitant prices. Watches such as Vacheron Constantin or Philippe Patek.

Just like changing the battery on a quartz watch, for mechanical watches it requires cleaning and maintenance after every few years. For this cost it varies from hundred dollars onwards.

As I have mentioned, I am new and this info is what I have amassed from reading articles and posts online and in books. So I may be wrong in some parts, and I am open to learning more if anyone can help me improve.

Thanks for reading and for anyone new to this hope you have learnt something.

 

Cheers.